Pies ’n Thighs opened in 2006, in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge. We took over a beer storage closet in the and transformed it into a tiny kitchen with six stools, serving huge donuts, two-napkin smoked pork sandwiches and salty, crispy fried chicken. The New York Times called the pies and the thighs a compelling combination, well executed and put forth with real heart—the sort of restaurant that’s hard to find, especially in the big city, but easy to love once found.